During my lash classes I often get asked, how can I apply a professional set of volume lashes? I want them to look full and perfect?
All students want to be able to apply and execute great volume lashes, but if you’re new to volume this can prove more of a challenge and struggle at first as your trying to cope with creating fans in a timely manner.
Ok, if you’ve trained in Russian Volume and understand how the technique works, you can now move onto the next step of tidying up your work, smoothing out any flaws and producing clean tidy lashes whether you want dramatic or natural.
1. ISOLATION – Isolating each and every lash is crucial not only will you cause damage to the natural lash if you bond two natural lashes together – never EVER do this as the natural lashes glued together will lead to pulling and cause stress and DAMADGE – Nooooo be patient, isolate each and every lash, this will also help you to create as much fullness as is possible for that client by using all their available natural lashes. Bear in mind not to put heavy lashes or 3/4D on the weak lashes just add 1x 0.07mm or 2d 0.05mm.
2. CHOOSING THE RIGHT LASHES, remember from your training that not all lashes are suitable and you must respect this.
0.10mm only use 2 of these for 2d effect
0.07mm you can use 1,2,3,4D effect
0.05mm you can use 1,2,3,4,5,6D effect
If you want to create a full on glamour look use 0.05mm, the lighter the lashes the fluffier the end result. As a general rule the thicker the extensions the more gappy / spidery the end result.
3. FANNING THE LASHES, whichever technique you use to fan the lashes is fine BUT, make sure you fan each and every lash extension WELL, don’t ever use two or more extensions stuck together, this will be too heavy for the natural lash to support AND it will also ruin your work by making a harsher line instead of a fluffy finish. Your fans should always look like “”V”’s a gap of around 1mm minimum between each fan is acceptable.
4. CHOOSING BETWEEN FANS, ok we can apply great V fans, but we can improve on the overall look by applying different type of fans WIDE or NARROW in different areas.
Wide fans, these are fans opened more than 1mm between each extension, typically 1.5mm or more.
Narrow fans, these are fans opened around 1mm between extensions, they MUST still look like a V, if they look like a Y these are too heavy at the base and cannot be used, these are bad and must be avoided.
A wide fan will create a Fluffier finish, and will be easier for your client to maintain the fluffy look.
A narrow fan will create a more uniformed straight and dense (black) finish. These fans may close over time.
We use narrow fans at the outer and inner corner of the eyes to give a clean crisp finish, no overhangs on the outer eye. This helps to avoid a lash fans hanging at the outer edge.
5. CHOOSING THE LENGTHS, keeping the lengths shorter will give the appearance of fuller lashes, the shorter the lengths in volume the fuller the look, gone are the days we used 12mm and 13mm. 11mm works best as the longest extension to use, of course this is only generalised, on occasions you may use 12 or 13 if the lash/client can take it, but keeping the extensions shorter will definitely create the illusion of more fullness.
5. MAPPING THE EYES, to apply a beautiful set of uniformed and tidy volume lashes we must map out (mark) the eyes before we start. Choose the lengths you are going to use, for a polished smooth finish we change 1mm at a time, so to cover an eye we will typically use, from inner to outer corner 8mm, 9mm, 10mm, 11mm,11mm, 10mm, 9mm. Write your lengths and draw lines where the changes of lengths will be on your gel pads/ tape, this makes it easier to see when to swap sizes. Leave the first two natural lashes from the inner corner free from extensions these are too delicate to take on volume fan extensions.
6. CHOOSING WHICH CURL TO USE, you can mix curls for a fluffier look, but generally
C curl works on most eye shapes,
D curl is more of a dramatic glamorous curl to the C (sometime this curl can be too curly for the inner eye, use c in corners instead)
L curl is a great curl for a maximum lift and eye opener.
L+ curl is great for the ultimate dramatic lash lift and great for a cat eye look. This curl is also great to lift the outer corners especially on those few natural lashes at the end that are downward facing.
If a client has sparse natural lashes, its best to create 2/3d using 0.07mm, keeping the longest lengths no longer than 11mm and place WIDE fans throughout. Mixing C and D curls work well. Do not use narrow fans.
For a very defined dramatic sharp finish, to clients with good amount of natural lashes, keep to one curl and use narrow fans throughout. No room for errors, be very accurate with your mapping, to avoid mistakes use a bright coloured pen to mark your style, again keeping the length shorter will produce a fuller look.
If you follow these easy steps you’re on your way to producing great volume work!
Want to improve and advance on your volume skills, speed, and lash styles or want to learn Russian Volume? Please contact me for courses available.
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